Steven, my sous-chef from 1993 until recently – when he finally took on a kitchen of his own – was my evil twin, my doppelgänger, my director of clandestine services, a Bilko-esque character who, in addition to the usual sous-chef responsibilities such as running the kitchen in my absence, line cooking at a high level and watching my back, was invaluable to me for his remarkable ability to get things done